Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2012

When Martin Margiela walked faraway from the label that bears his name in 2009, the maison was left with a choice: continue within the founder’s legacy and expand his vision as they suspect he may need done it or invite another designer to come back in and, for better or worse, potentially render the label unidentifiable from its origins. It isn’t an effortless choice. Consider both most up-to-date turnovers: Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior. Both companies were forced to prematurely replace their star creative directors, although just temporarily, and both decided to advertise from within: Sarah Burton, Lee’s longtime right hand at McQueen, and Bill Gaytten, who worked with John Galliano for greater than 20 years and is taking the role on an interim basis at Dior. It was the same decision that’s yielded very different results. See? It’s hard.

Maison Martin Margiela decided that a kind of faceless team would design the gathering in step with the already established Margiela ethos. It sort of feels to be working commercially. The garments look great available on the market, and more women are coming to the emblem for his or her strong off-the-beaten-path basics, lots of that have been within the spring collection: long, straight leather skirts with slits back and front, cool trench coats that looked as though they’d been artfully slapped together from scraps, and long, sleeveless leather tops with exposed zippers running along the skin. The pieces were imminently wearable and comparatively realistic, but you continue to found yourself missing the marginally outrageous styling or humorous touch that was always present when Margiela himself was on the helm. Although it was something that may look ridiculous on, just seeing it made you’re thinking that in a brand new way.

There were hints of that whimsy inside the skirt and gown that appeared like sequined Persian rugs, echoing those at the runway and topped with a plastic bag. The perimeter along the hem and hues of the pieces were appealing, and should you saw them at the models you felt a little bit of that trademark energy. It’ll has been great to determine more of that at the runway. Because it stands, the team seems slightly too frightened of the sacred cow, however can be doing Margiela’s name more justice by looking into collaborating with, if not outright hiring, a dynamic personality.