NEW VINTAGE: VERSACE FOR H&M

DONATELLA VERSACE’S H&M COLLECTION DRAWS AT THE HOUSE’S TREASURED ARCHIVE FOR GARMENTS WHICH ARE COMPLETELY OF-THE-MOMENT

When Donatella Versace took a bow following her menswear show in Milan in June, she stood smiling, arms behind her back. Beyond the cascade of perennially platinum blonde hair and toned, tanned limbs, something stood out: Versace’s dress, a sensual but tough black leather shift punctuated with gold studs. Three months later, Anna Dello Russo will be seen wearing a similar number in Paris, and the designer herself would don the same style in white for her Spring 2012 Versace women’s collection. Come November 19, a shorter, slightly less embellished version of that dress, which Versace designed for H&M, will hit stores within the U.S.-and sure sell out within an issue of hours.

That Versace collaborated with the Swedish retail giant in any respect can have surprised fast fashion followers. Back in 2008, the designer said she had no real interest in making a lower-priced line, though, she added, she respected those, like Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, and Alber Elbaz, who did. Three years on, and Versace has seemingly broadened her sartorial horizons, developing a wallet-friendly line that comprises women’s, men’s, and residential collections. The timing couldn’t be better, as Versace, in all its colorful, opulent glory, has recaptured the fad zeitgeist with its graphic, tightly edited collections and an endorsement from Lady Gaga, who seemingly wore archival Versace pieces all summer long.

Inspired by iconic vintage pieces created by Versace’s late brother, Gianni, Versace for H&M also channels a daring bravura that’s distinctly Donatella. Medallion, leopard, and floral prints come alive in a riot of kaleidoscopic color, covering leggings, bomber jackets, and bustiers; chain mail and cut-outs appear on minidresses, while studs dot clutches, trousers, and bright sheaths. In other words, the house’s DNA is writ large-manifest in an exuberant fusion of past and present. Sarah Fones

The Better of Versace for H&M hits stores this Saturday. hm.com

From V74 The Model Issue, on sale now!

Photography Paul Maffi
Styling Tom Van Dorpe